Tudor Market Hall Part 12 - Continuing the Dolls House Build

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02 October 2012
imports_HAC_thecompletedtudormarke-2-_17998.jpg The Completed Tudor Market Hall
Kevin Jackson shows us how to construct the roof, make a dormer window, put in beams and install lighting in the 12th part of this popular dolls house series. ...

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbidge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbridge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 instead.


The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.

Roof on the Right Hand Side of the House

Step 1

  • Cut 3 x pieces of MDF into triangles 635mm wide x 356mm high. 1 from 6mm MDF and 2 from 12mm MDF.

  • On one of the 12mm MDF triangles cut out a 25mm perimeter with your steel rule and jig saw.

  • On the 6mm MDF triangle, mark 60mm up from the bottom edge, then 150mm up from this point to form the top and bottom of the window.

  • Mark 50mm lines out from the centre line and draw the vertical sides of the window.

  • This gives a 100mm wide x 150mm high window which you can then cut out.

  • Paint all 3 pieces on both sides. You only need to paint the front of the solid 12mm piece.

Step 2

  • To make sure the back wall panel is fixed vertically square, use a bevel to determine the roof pitch.

  • Cut 2 x pieces of 12mm MDF to the correct pitch of the roof and glue into place using a square.

  • Glue both 12mm support panels into place.

  • Use a weight to hold the front frame vertical while the glue dries.

  • The front face of the front frame panel should be 22mm from the edge of the floor panel it is fixed to.

 Step 3

  • Making the roof panels for the right hand side of the house can be a little awkward, so take your time and double or even triple check everything before you start cutting your MDF.

  • Place a timber straight edge on top of the 2 apex panels, making sure the top of the framed support panel is vertically true.

  • Mark the front face of the panel point with a line on the straight edge, and then another line 50mm along from it - this is to provide the overhang you need.

  • Move the straight edge down so that it has the lines you marked on it level with the face of the frame panel on the right.

  • Mark where the point of the slope on the roof panel, already fixed for the Great Hall, touches it.

  • The two dimensions should be 820mm across the top and 570mm across the bottom.

  • Measuring along the top edge of the gable panels from the apex to a point that lines up with the sloping overhand of the already fixed panel should give you a measurement of 508mm. 

  • Cut the first angled panel to these measurements and hold it in place to see if it is a good fit.

  • If it is, cut the second one, if it's not, adjust as required or cut another one.

  • You should now have two panels that look like the two in the photo (ignore the dormer that I'd already fixed before taking the photo).

  • The hole in the front roof panel around wihch the dormer window is constructed needs to start 120mm up from the bottom edge, 265mm in from the right hand edge and be 100mm x 100m.

Dormer Window

Step 4

  • With the front roof held in place, use a bevel to determine the angle of the roof.

  • Cut 2 x pieces of 12mm MDF into triangles that are 92mm x 107mm x 140mm.

  • Cut another pieces that is 124mm wide x 100mm deep and sand the appropriate roof angle along one of the 124mm edges.

  • Place a small off-cut of FB366 stripwood as a gauge flush with the bottom edge of the cut out, and then use strong clamps to hold another longer strip across the bottom so that you can glue and weight these three pieces into place.     

  • Cut a trianglular piece of 12mm MDF that is 124mm wide x 90mm high at the centre, and glue to the top of the dormer window.

Step 5

  • Use the same method as for the main roof to determine the dimensions for the top and bottom edges of the roof panels to the dormer, allowing an overhang of about 10mm to the front and 15mm at the bottom of each side.

  • This should be about 190mm along the top and 103mm at the bottom, with a height of 125mm.

  • Cut two pieces the same size.    

  • Paint the bottom edges along with the overhang areas on the underside of these two small roof panels.

  • Paint all around the outside of the dormer before gluing them in place.

  • You can use veneer pins to secure them while the glue dries.

  • Use the glue gun to glue and seal the ridge line and where both angle sides meet the main roof.

Step 6

  • Paint the inside of both main roof panels, along with the inside of the dormer window.

  • Frame the outside of the window with FB366 stripwood above and to the sides.

  • Keep the bottom side timbers about 6mm off the surface of the roof to allow for the thickness of the roof plaster later.

  • To speed things up you can pin the timbers to the front as the pin heads will  be covered up with other timbers.

Step 7

  • Continue making the outside of the window as you have for the other windows.

  • Including the pegs, the glazing and the inside woodwork. 

  • Fix FB407 stripwood flat against the ceiling and walls, and the same around the opening in the slope of the roof.

  • Glue 3 pieces of room beams to the ceiling inside the dormer.

Step 8

  • In the same way as all the other rooms, cut prepare and fix the floor boards in place.

  • Make sure you keep the first and last boards far enough away from the edges of the floor panel where the bottom of the roof will meet it, so as not to interfere with the line of the roof.

  • You will be fixing FB189 stripwood beams at this point shortly, so you have quite a bit of leaway.

  • Use FB366 stripwood to frame around the inside of both gable panels, fixing two wall lights on the back wall.

Floor Beams and Support Beams

Step 9

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  • Cut lengths of FB189 for the floor beams, the intermediate beams and the double apex beam.

  • Do not fix any of these in place yet, it is easier to measure and cut them before the roof panels are fixed.

Step 10

  • Position and mark the painted side of the roof panel.

  • Score it to take the glue, and glue and pin in place. 

  • Use the glue gun to glue and seal the join between the two roof panels where they meet in the valley.

  • Same as the Great Hall, fit a full height FB189 stripwood support post for the double apex beam and glue in place ensuring it is level.

  • Glue the FB365 Scotia moulding support brackets to either end.

  • Glue a piece of FB407 stripwood between them covering the centre join in the double beam.   

  • Glue the floor level beam in place.

  • Decide upon the height of the intermediate beam (approx. 210mm), and glue a ceiling joist at either end of the beam.

  • Glue the intermediate beam in place followed by the first and last ceiling joinst between the intermediate beam and the double apex beam.

Step 11

  • Starting centrally to the window, then either side of it, determine what size spacers you need and cut enough for both sides of the room.

  • You will find that you need to wait until you get to the last joists to finalise the size of the first and last spacers.

  • Work your way along and complette the joists on this side.

Step 12

  • Another small job that you can do now is the second small patch of exposed brickwork on the outside chimbey and first floor level.

  • As before, seal the MDF with dilute PVA.

  • Use PVA to stick the amount of brick slips you want to the chimney.

  • Seal with PVA before grouting, then wash off the excess grout with a wet cloth.

Upper Floor Lighting

Step 13

  • To install the chandeliers and the lights in either end of the apex beam, you need a 3mm drill bin in a mini drill.

  • Carefully drill through both support beams at at the points that you want the chandeliers to be.

  • Above the beam, drill through from the Great Hall side into the roof space next to it.

  • Thread 2 grain of wheat bulbs through white plastic bead spacers and up through the holes you drilled in the support brackets.

  • Extend the wires from each along the beam and into the roof space next door.

  • Remove the plugs from the end of the DE147 lights, thread up through the beam and run the wires through to next door, leaving them hanging to the height you want them at.

  • Dont join any of them up to each other at this time.

  • Tape all the wires neatly to the top of the beam.

Step 14

  • Repeat this in the right hand room, using two grain of wheat bulbs and one DE147.

  • Bring all the wires back to the roof void behind the back wall.

  • Connect the three chandeliers together and the two wall lights, up to the total of 4 beam lights.

  • Keep these on a separate circuit so that you can choose which lights you want on at any one time.    

  • Test the lights to make sure they all work.

  • Neatly tape down the wires to make sure they don't get damaged when the final roof panel is fitted.

  • Drill a small hole in the floor panel in the roof void and bring both wires through ready to connect later.

  • Paint the exposed white wires of each chandelier with black acrylic paint.





This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.


For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the Directory section of this website.


For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.




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