Tudor Market Hall Part 15 - Continuing the Dolls House Build

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19 December 2012
imports_HAC_thecompletedtudormarke-5-_99466.jpg The Completed Tudor Market Hall
We are now going to work on the Great Hall access panel, the right room access panel, end wall panel and the Great Hall wood panelling, as Kevin Jackson shows us how. ...
Tudor Market Hall Part 15 - Continuing the Dolls House Build Images

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbridge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbridge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 instead.


The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.

Great Hall access panel

Step 1


  • On the double height front panel, frame the panel around its perimeter and around the window with FB366 stripwood, this time making the edges of the timbers around the window flush to the edge of the window opening, both inside and out. 


  • Frame around the opening on the outside of the panel, with FB189 stripwood, again keeping the inside edge flush to the window opening.
  • Using a piece of FB407 stripwood as a gauge, glue another set of FB189 stripwood on top of the first, setting them in to the opening by the thickness of the FB407.
  • This will form a 4mm recess all the way round the window on the inside. 


Step 2

  • Use the same principle as you have been for all of the windows so far, dividing the width into three sections of 60mm and the height into three sections of 95mm, and glue pieces of FB180 stripwood into the opening to form a window grid.
  • The back edge of the FB180 needs be flush with the back edge of the top layer of FB189 stripwood.

  • You can then turn the panel over and glue FB407 stripwood over the top of these, cutting pieces into thinner strips to infill around the perimeter, making a flush surface to glaze on to later.
  • Turn the panel back over and continue the grid with FB366 stripwood on the face of the panel, and FB200 Astragal moulding on top of the FB180 stripwood.
  • Cut two pieces of FB407 stripwood and fix to the top and bottom of the window to pack out the step created by the offset top frame of FB189 stripwood, extending from outside edge to outside edge.


  • Use the mitre saw to cut a piece of FB365 Scotia moulding with a 45 degrees angle cut on both ends. Stain, then glue to the window when it’s dry.


Step 3

  • Glue a piece of CD42 twisted rope moulding up either side of the window. Create a mitred frame using FB407 stripwood and plant on top of the outside surface of the second piece of FB189 stripwood.
  • Make the outside edges of it over sale the outside edges of the FB189 frame, so that it forms a recess for the CD42 moulding. Mitre another frame of CD42 moulding and glue centrally on top of the FB407 stripwood.

  • CD42 is no longer available so if you don’t have this handy we recommend that you use the FB200.
  • Using FB407 stripwood, frame on top of the perimeter FB366 stripwood that is already in place, keeping all of the outside edges flush. 

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Step 4


  • Use FB407 stripwood and glue centrally on top of the FB366 stripwood grid.
  • Finish off by installing wooden pegs at all the cross over points and joints around the outside, and FB343 Ogee moulding support brackets beneath the window.

Step 5


  • To glaze the feature window, cut three pieces of acetate so that the joins butt together on the inside of the cross members.
  • Finish off with a flush grid of FB407 stripwood. Line the whole window recess with FB366 stripwood, then an additional grid of FB180 stripwood. 


  • Finish off with FB200 Astragal moulding. Only put the window ironmongery on the bottom two corner windows. 



Right room access panel


Step 6


  • The window on the access panel to the right of this one should reflect the same design and be made in an almost identical way.
  • Form the outside window surround with the same stepped double layer of FB189 stripwood, and line flush around the window on the inside, but use FB407 stripwood instead of FB366 stripwood this time.
  • Use pieces of FB407 to gauge the gap you need to leave clear on either end to allow the panel to fit.



Step 7


  • Instead of using a piece of FB365 Scotia moulding across the top of the window, only glue a piece of FB407 stripwood the full width under the window, and use CD42 twisted rope moulding on the top and two sides (or FB200).
  • Form a recess by making a mitred frame of FB407 stripwood offset by 4mm to cover the CD42 moulding, and a mitred frame of CD42 moulding centrally on top of this.
  • Finishsh the outside of the window in the same way as usual with FB180 stripwood, backed with FB407stripwood with FB200 Astragal moulding on the front.
  • To keep the grid matching, do not fit a horizontal bar to the top of this window. 


    Step 8

    • Glaze with two pieces of acetate, keeping the join behind one of the vertical bars, and finish off inside exactly the same way as for the large feature window.
    • Firstly with a flush grid of FB407 stripwood, followed by lining the recess with FB366 stripwood, then vertical bars of FB180 stripwood with FB200 Astragal moulding on top of these.
  • Fit window ironmongery to four of the five window sections. Finally fit strips of FB407 stripwood in line with the window bars below the window. 

Step 9

  • Finish off the outside of the access panel by gluing a perimeter of FB407 stripwood on top of the already fixed FB366 stripwood, horizontal FB366 at the same level as the bottom and top of the window and vertical FB366 pieces below the window. 
  • Finish off with wooden pegs and FB343 Ogee moulding support brackets.

Right hand end wall access panel

Step 10

  • The right hand end access panel is much simpler. You need to frame the outside perimeter with FB366 stripwood.
  • Then around the window on the outside with the same, but this time you do need to form a 3mm recess inside by fixing them over the edge of the window cut out. Form the window in the usual way with FB189 stripwood fixed above and below, and FB180 stripwood vertically and forming the horizontal bar towards the top of the window.
  • Double up at the base of the panel on the outside only, with a strip of FB407 stripwood.
  • Inside is formed as the lower windows are, but using FB366 stripwood instead, so this needs to be flush to the window cut out on the inside.


Step 11

  • Fix a length of FB407 stripwood along the front of the house at second floor level. 
  • Then another piece over the exposed edge of MDF and a piece of sanded down FB180 stripwood on the end of the cavity wall.
  • Cut a piece sanded down to about 8mm wide with an angled top to the left hand exposed edge of MDF.

Oak panelling in the Great Hall

Step 12

  • To form the oak panelling in the Great Hall and the second floor bedroom, take the ten sheets of oak, stain them with the dark oak stain, but instead of letting them dry after brushing, use a cloth to wipe the excess stain and brush marks away - this gives a far better grain definition. The photo below shows half of a sheet left to dry naturally compared with the right hand side which has been wiped with a cloth.


  • Cut full height 76mm strips of the stained oak to fit between all of the upright timbers in the two rooms, sanding any left or right edges you need to, to make sure you get a really good fit.
  • Do not glue them at this stage.

Step 13

  • Working your way round from one side of the house remove a panel and having cut a sheet of the remaining oak down exactly by half along its length, make a couple of timber gauges to help you position a central raised panel.
  • I have used a piece of FB407 stripwood for the left and right edges, and a strip of oak cut to size for the top and bottom.
  • The oak gauge will need to be about 19mm, thereby giving a gap of 19mm top and bottom, with a 38mm panel central on the 76mm full height strip.
  • Once you have decided you are happy with the gauges you can start cutting and gluing the raised panels.
  • If the piece of panelling you have taken from the house is 100mm wide, allowing for the 12mm gap at either end, you will need to cut a length of the cut down oak of 76mm.
  • Stain all the edges of the raised panel, and position a gauge up one edge and the other along the bottom, to give you a corner in which to glue the panel.
  • Work your way round both rooms, gluing the panels into place with a strip of FB407 stripwood fixed on top of the panels.
  • Cut each piece of FB407 stripwood as you go, using the panel you are going to glue in as a profile to give you the measurement you need.

Step 14

  • Once all the panels are in place, glue the stone fire surround onto the wall of the Great Hall, using both Speed Bond and Roket Rapid. 

Step 15

  • Use FB200 Astragal moulding, chamfered where it meets another piece in the corners of the rooms and fix along the top of the panelling, centrally on top of the pieces of FB407 stripwood you have recently fixed. 


  • When stopping at the front of the house where the access panel will be, make sure you stop it short enough so it doesn’t interfere with the panel.
  • Now fix FB200 Astragal moulding vertically on top of the pieces of FB407 stripwood which are in the panelling, chamfering the underside of the edge where it meets the FB200 moulding running horizontally.

Step 16

  • Continue the panelling to the inside of the access panels, but remember not to fix any FB200 Astragal moulding to the inside of the double height panel, as it needs to sit flush against the support panel in its opening. 

For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.

This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.


For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the Directory section of this website. 

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