Tudor Market Hall Part 3 - Constructing the Back Wall of the Miniature Market Square

The materials and tools list for this project are in Part 1, if you click this link it will take you back to this stage.

Back Wall of the Market Square

Step 1

• Measure from the plinth brickwork on the right hand side room wall to the very right hand edge of the base.
• Measure the height from the top of the base to the very top of the room wall.
• Cut a piece of 12mm MDF to these measurements for the back wall.
• To allow the panel to slide in position tight against the right hand room wall and plinth beneath the ground floor overhang, measure what the overhang is (it should be approximately 16mm) and mark a vertical line to the top of the back panel at this point.
• Measure the height of the plinth (which should be 60mm) and mark a horizontal line across the full witdth of the panel.
• Now cut out the 16mm section above the horizontal line with a jigsaw.

Step 2

• Paint both sides of the panel with 3 coates of magnolia emulsion.
• When dry, draw a horizontal line across on both sides at the same height as the plinth of the ground floor room (60mm).
• Cut and glue pieces of FB407 pre-stained stripwood to both ends of the panel up to this line, and horizontal pieces inbetween them flush to the line.
• Cut 3 lengths of pre-stained stripwood to fit vertically, dividing this section into 4 even parts.
• Glue the wood in place.
• Apply brickwork as previously described in Part 1 Step 10.

Step 3

• Glue this back wall panel into place against the room wall, plinth and base ensuring that it is vertical and square.
• Weigh it down well until the glue dries.

Step 4

• When the back wall is secure, glue pre-stained lengths of FB180 strip wood around the rest of the main house.
• Also on top of the FB407 on both sides of the panel.
• This should make the plinth look continuous around the house.
• Measure the height from the room floor to the top of the right hand room wall.
• Cut a stained piece of FB189 strip wood to this lenght and sit it in the front recess of the cavity wall.
• Then cut a piece of FB180 to the same length and glue this to the right hand to cover the exposed end of the MDF.

Step 5

• Using FB407 stripwood, cut 9 vertical beams the height from the top of the plinth to the top of the back and room walls.
• Glue one at the end of each wall and 2 in the corner where the walls meet.
• Glue the remaining beams in place to correspond wo the vertical beams of the plinth.
• Cut 14 pieces of stripwood to fit between the verticals top and bottom.
• Glue these in place and clamp until dry.

 

    

Step 6

• Cut 2 lengths of FB407 strip wood to the measurement of the back wall.
• Cut 2 lengths of FB407 to the measurement of the room wall.
• Glue over the top of the individual pieces you have just glued in place.

Step 7

Now that you have doubled up on the timbers running along the top and bottom of these walls, you need to install the 3mm dowels which are used to fake the pegs which would have origianally been used to secure the joints in the timber frames.

• Use a sharp new blade to cut lengths of dowel about 8 mm long.
• Wherever a vertical beam meets a horizontal beam, use a 3.2mm driill bit to drill a hole through the horizontal beam about 6mm deep.

   

      

• Make a small pool of Speed Bond glue and dip the end of the peg int it.

• Place into the drilled hole and lightly hammer into place.
• Repeat for all the holes.
• Wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth and leave to dry.