Tudor Market Hall Part 5 - Continuing the miniature build


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imports_HAC_completedtudormarketha_60342.jpg Completed Tudor Market Hall
Now that we have the lights installed on the ground floor and the front window in place, we can make the front door and position the ceiling joints. ...
Tudor Market Hall Part 5 - Continuing the miniature build Images

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbidge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbidge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 insteaad.

Dimensions

The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.

Materials & Cutting list

Please go to Part 1 for this information.

Step 1 - Ground floor front door

  • Cut 4 pieces of FB366 stripwood the same size as the door opening.
  • Cut one piece approximately 50mm long.
  • Cut 2 pieces of FB407 stripwood 72mm long
  • Cut 2 pieces of FB407 stripweek 131mm long.
  • Wire brush all pieces.
  • Remove the front panel from the house.

 

Step 2

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  • Put the 4 panels together on a flat surface.
  • Use Speed Bond to glue the top, bottom and 2 side pieces onto the door panels as shown.
  • Only glue the underside and ends of the FB407 pieces where it is needed.
  • Clamp tightly together until completely dry. See first picture below.

 

    

  • When completely dry, remove the clamps and mark the centre point of the door height.
  • Glue the last little piece of FB366 centrally across and leave to dry. See second photo above.
  • Don't worry too much about the edges not lining up at this stage, they will all be sanded off later.

 

Step 3

  • Remove the clamps.
  • Carefully sand all edges round the door.
  • Test for fit in the door opening.
  • If too tight, keep sanding all edges evenly until it fits.
  • Stain the door and leave to dry.

 

    

Step 4

  • Put the front panel in place to make sure it is a good fit.
  • If it is too tight, sand the base panel until it fits smoothly.
  • If it too loose, don't worry because we can adjust this later.
  • You will need  4 x 12mm brackets made from FB464, a length of CD42 (or FB200), a short piece of FB189, 3mm dowel and a couple of pieces of FB407. See photo below.

 

  • Remove the panel from the house.
  • At the bottom you will have 3 small gaps between the vertical timbers (see photo above).
  • Cut small pieces of pre-stained FB407 and fit into these gaps.
  • Cut a piece of FB189 the exact width of the outside edges of the verticle timbers at the top of the door.
  • Carefuly round off the front edges on either end and glue centrally onto the cross timber above the door.
  • Glue a support bracket to either side beneath it and a bracket the other way round at the base of the door in line with the ones above.
  • Cut 2 pieces of CD42 twisted rope moulding (or FB200) about 15mm longer than the gap between each pair of support brackets.
  • Sand the underside of each end to a 45 degree angle.
  • Offer them up to the brackets and keep sanding until you get a good fit where each end covers the low end of the brackets, and glue in place.

 

Step 5

  • It is now that we can adjust the fit of the front panel if it is loose.
  • Cut two pieces of FB407 stripwood the exact length of the two sides, either side of the door opening at the base of the front panel.
  • Carefully round off the two outside edges of these pieces.
  • Do not round the ends off that abut up to the two brackets at the base of the door.

 

  • If your panel fits nicely, glue these two pieces to the bottom of the panel flush with the lower edge.
  • If the panel is loose, glue them in place with the bottom edge slightly proud of the bottom edge of the panel which will raise it up slightly to fit snugly.
  • Cut some 3mm dowl pegs.
  • Drill where the structural joints would be.
  • Glue and place the pegs into the panel.

 

Step 6 - Roof beams and ceiling joists

  • Roof beams and ceiling joists in the ground floor room.
  • Start by marking the central point on the top edge of the chimney opening. This should be in line with the vertical internal beam directly opposite.
  • Use a small piece of FB407 and glue a matching vertical beam from the top of the mantle timber to the underside of the timber fixed at ceiling level.
  • Measure the gap between these two vertical beams across the width of the room.
  • Cut 2 pieces of FB189 and glue them together with Roket Rapid so you end up with a double beam measing 12mm x 24 mm.
  • Cut a piece of FB180 the same length and glue this along the joint on the underside of the double beam.

 

Step 7

  • Glue the ends of the now triple beam in place.
  • Measure and cut four pieces of FB180 stripwood to fit tightly from the beam to all four corners of the room.
  • Glue and clamp these in place.
  • use 2 pieces of FB238 coving moulding cut to about 8mm and glue into place as support brackets to either end of the centre beam.

 

 Step 8

  • At this point it is time to put in any angled wall beams if you want them.
  • Like many parts of the build this is a matter of personal taste, and you can have as few or as many as you want.
  • Or even have none at all.
  • Decide where they are to go, cut lengths and angle the ends.
  • Sand and stain, and when dry glue into place.

 

   

Step 9

  • Ceiling joists will run from front to back.
  • Mark the centre line on the central beam in pencil.
  • Mark the centre of each side, and then again giving 7 joists to be fixed. See photo below.

 

Step 10

  • Work out and cut spacing timbers to fit between each joist.
  • There are 32 Spacers in total.
  • Cut from FB180 stripwood and glue in place with the joists neatly positioned in between.

 

TO GO BACK TO PART 4

TO GO FORWARD TO PART 6

For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.

 

This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.

For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the marketplace section of this website.