Tudor Market Hall Part 6 - Continuing the dolls house build

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28 March 2012
imports_HAC_thetudormarkethall-3-_39357.jpg The Tudor Market Hall
With the ceiling joists now in place, Kevin completes the front ground floor and attaches the ceiling panel to the ground floor. ...
Tudor Market Hall Part 6 - Continuing the dolls house build Images

For those new to this project, the list of materials required was printed in Part 1 which is available here on line.

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbidge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbidge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 instead.


The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.


Step 1 - Fiting the Door

  • Stain and size the door.
  • Use a pair of DIY347 hinges and screws
  • Place the door into the recess in the front panel and decide which way you want it to open.
  • Position the hinges and use a bradawl to start the holes for the screws. See first photo below.
  • Screw the hinges into place.
  • The door should be free to swing, if it doesn't take it off and carefully sand the edges until it does.
  • Touch up the stain, let it dry, and re-hang. Please see the second photo below.



Step 2

  • Use pre-stained FB407 stripwood for the inside of the panel.
  • You will need some offcuts of FB407 as spacers.
  • Cut 3 pieces of the same to fit between above the window and two at the bottom edge either side of the door.
  • Stain the cut ends of the stripwood to match.
  • Glue and clamp in place.


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Step 3

  •  Cut pieces of FB407 to fit vertically between the top and bottom beams.
  • Notch out with a knife where the hinges are and glue into place.



  • Fit a piece of FB407 along the bottom of the window, keeping the top edge flush with the top edge of the inside frame.
  • This gives a level edge to fit a window board (sill).
  • Cut a piece of FB366 stripwood the full width of the window to the outside eges of the vertical timbers.
  • Carefully notch the ends out so that it sits inside the window recess as a board (sill). Don't glue it in yet.
  • Stain the cut ends.
  • Cut and chamfer three pieces of FB200 Astragel moulding to go along the top and down both sides inside the window recess. (see second photo below)



Step 4

  • Remove the glazing acetate and carefully place a very small spot of super glue on the centre cross joints on the window frame.
  • Put the acetate back in.
  • Starting with the window board (sill), glue all the timbers into the recess.
  • Cut a very small piece of FB407 and fix centreally at the base of the window.


Step 5 - Ceiling Panels

  • Take a piece of 6mm MDF the full width of the ground floor including the back wall panel of the market square, plus 20mm to allow for the overhang you want on the wall with the chimney.
  • The depth from back to front needs to allow for a 20mm overhang at the back of the house, and approximately 115mm at the front.
  • Final measurements are approximately 970mm wide x 555mm deep.
  • On the right hand side of this piece, when viewed from the front, cut a recess 94mm x 325 mm deep for the external stairs to be fitted in later.
  • Paint the ceiling side of the floor panel with three coats of magnolia.


  • Measure in 20mm from the back and chimney side edge of the panel.
  • Draw a pencil line along both and partially tack veneer pins along the line.
  • This makes it easier to position the floor planel correctly.


Step 6

  • Use off-cuts of FB189 to seal the top of the cavity wall.
  • Take care not to damage any wires below, glue in place.
  • Position the floor panel in place (DO NOT GLUE IT YET).
  • Distribute the weight evenly across it, and you will see where any of the walls or beams below might be slightly high.
  • Remove the floor panel, and sand where necessary.


  • Keep replacing the floor, checking and sanding until  you are happy.
  • Leave it in place and use a sharp pencil to mark the outline of the walls and central beam on the painted ceiling.


Step 7

  • With the pencilled outline in place, lay the panel on a flat surface and score between the lines with a knife.
  • Once fully scored, use a dusting brush to brush away all the dust and paint chips.
  • Use a pencil rubber to erase the lines.
  • Touch up any paintwork that may have been damaged as requried.



  • Stand the access front panel in place.
  • Apply PVA glue to every edge and beam that the floor panel is going to sit on.
  • Take care not to over-glue the internal beams. See the second photo above.
  • With the temporary veneer pins still in place, carefully position the panel.
  • Use temporary props beneath the overhand of the market area and balcony.
  • Use heavy weights to hold the ceiling/floor panel in place whilst the glue dries. See below!!


  • Remove the temporary pins.
  • Fill and paint any gaps they leave.




For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.


This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.

For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the marketplace section of this website.




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