Tudor Market Hall Part 7 - Continuing the Dolls House Build

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24 April 2012
imports_HAC_thetudormarkethall-4-_26209.jpg The Tudor Market Hall
In part 7, Kevin makes the ornate ceiling for the market area. Showing techniques which can be utilized in many different dolls house projects as well as in the marvellous Tudor Market Hall. ...
Tudor Market Hall Part 7 - Continuing the Dolls House Build Images

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbidge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbidge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 instead.


The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.


To work on the ornate ceiling inthe market area, it is much easier to have the house upside down so you are not looking up all the time. You may need someone to help you lift it into position!!

Step 1 - Ornate Ceiling

  • Glue a piece of FB407 stripwood along the front of the fixed 20mm strip, which will cover any glue smears you may have.


  • Use a straight edge to draw lines from the back of the market wall to the front of the house.
  • Draw a line along the front of the ceiling about 25mm wide, a steel rule is usually the perfect width for this.




Step 2

  • Glue and clamp a piece of FB 189 stripwood along this line, with the front of the timber behind the line leaving a clear 25mm gap in front of it.
  • The right hand end of the timber as you are looking at it should be in line with the edge of the house.
  • The left end finishes on the last of the lines you have drawn.



Step 3

  • Use FB189 stripwood to form a grid along the lines you have drawn from the back to the inside of the front beam you have fixed in place.
  • Infill with the same wood from the side of the house out towards where the staircase cut out is.
  • Finish the grid off by gluing FB189 stripwood flush to the edge of the staircase recess and the edge of the ceiling to the left of it.



  • Cut FB180 stripwood in lengths to fit in line with the internal ceiling beams and the front edge beam and glue into place.
  • Use a short piece of FB189 stripwood and fix level to the house (to your right), which the first FB180 will sit next to.
  • You can now turn the house right way up.


Step 4

  • Cut lengths of FB189 stripwood to use as support beams to the balcony and the market areas.
  • These should be in the region of 276mm, but the size depends upon your individual build.
  • Position the posts where you think you would like them, standing back to have a look before fixing permanently in place.
  • I suggest that you have a post that supports the perimeter FB189 beam, and at every point that one of the internal FB189 beams joins it.
  • Then place 2 more between the wall of the house and the external stairs in line with the front wall of the house.
  • This provides plenty of scope for decorative brackets, whilst leaving a nice open area to use as the market.
  • Once you are happy with the position of the posts, glue them in place ensuring they are vertically square and in line.
  • Becuse of the flexing of the MDF where it overhangs, you will have to use weights to ensure a good bond.



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Step 5

  • When completely dry, turn the house upside down again.
  • Cut lengths of FB407 strip wood.
  • Glue them all the way round the outside of the perimeter ceiling beam.
  • Clamp in place until dry.



Step 6

  • Cut and stain as many FB365 Scotia moulding and FB464 decorative moulding support brackets as you think you want to use.
  • Position them until you are happy with the overall effect.
  • In the photos I have used unstained ones to show where I have used them.
  • Where I have used FB365 on the underside of the painted overhang, I have cut part of it down to 12mm so that it is flush with the underside of the beam.
  • When you are completely happy with the positions, glue them all into place.




Step 7

  • With the house still upside down, use CD42 twisted rope moulding  (or FB200) to fill in along the ceiling beams in between all of the support brackets and along the underside of the perimeter beam.
  • Where this is a junction between the end of a piece of CD42 moulding and a straight piece, chamfer the underside of it off and butt join them.



  • You can now turn the house the correct way up and admire your handiwork.



To go back to part 6

To go forward to part 8

For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.

This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.


For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the marketplace section of this website.



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