Tudor Market Hall Part 8 - Continuing the Dolls House Build

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14 May 2012
imports_HAC_thetudormarkethall-5-_12664.jpg The Tudor Market Hall
With the ornate ceiling to the market area complete, it is time to erect the first floor walls and make the stairs up to the next level. ...
Tudor Market Hall Part 8 - Continuing the Dolls House Build Images

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbidge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbidge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 instead.


The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.


First Floor Walls

Step 1

  • Mark out on the first floor the positions for the first floor walls.
  • Position the wall between the two rooms so that it just about lines up with the wall on the ground floor.


Step 2

  • Cut 5 pieces of 6mm MDF.
  • 4 pieces 210 mm long and 429 mm wide
  • 1 piece 210 mm long and 782 mm wide
  • On one of the 210 x 429 mm pieces make a hole for the chimney, central to the chimney below.
  • This side panel will sit 6mm in from the back edge as it butts against the larger back wall piece.
  • Mark out a shape 120 mm wide x 115 mm high and cut out.


Step 3

  • On another of the 210 x 429 mm pieces mark out a window for the right hand external wall.
  • Measure and mark two lines across the width of the piece, one 60 mm up from the bottom edge, the other 155mm up from the bottom edge.
  • The window between these lines will be 95mm high.
  • Mark the centre line of the panel, and centre a 180mm window opening on this line and between the previously drawn lines.
  • Cut it out.
  • The remaining two pieces of 210 x 429 mm MDF are to be glued together to create the central cavity wall between the two internal rooms.
  • Mark the door opening 70mm wide and 155mm high in one corner of these pieces.
  • Clamp both pieces together and cut out the door opening with a jigsaw to make sure they line up perfectly.
  • Glue the two pieces of wall together exactly as done with the cavity wall on the ground foor using FB189 stripwood between them, leaving room for the wiring etc.



Step 4

  • Decide where you want the central wall to go.
  • Draw pencil lines along the floor and up the back wall to give accurate marks to enable you to glue the wall vertically square when putting all together.
  • Use PVA and glue all the wall panels into place.
  • Use a spare sheet of MDF on top of the walls and weigh them all down whilst the glue dries.


  • When dry, remove the weights and spare MDF sheet and give all the walls inside and out 3 coats of magnolia emulsion.


External Stairs

Step 5

  • Take 2 sets of the DIY051 stairs and carefully cut the two top threads from one set.
  • Put this part to one side for the internal stairs.
  • For the external stairs, use the full set plus the additional two treads you have cut off.



  • Cut a piece of 6mm MDF that is wider than the stairs by exactly 2 x widths of FB407 stripwood. i.e. about 24mm wider, and the combined length of the treads added together.
  • Use the end of the bench sander to carefully create a worn area on each tread to make them look authentic.
  • Now, using strips of FB407 either side to position the steps centrally on the MDF glue the stairs into place and clamp until dry.


Step 6

  • When completely dry, sand the backing MDF edges at angles along the top and bottom so they sit niceley on the house base and against the floor panel edge above.
  • Stain the stairs.
  • Glue into place so that the top edge is as close to being flush with the top of where the floorboards will be as you can possibly manage.



Step 7

  • Cut a small of 6mm MDF to fit over the top of the ground floor chimney, and glue into place.



Step 8

  • Measure and cut all the floorboards.
  • Add cut marks and fake nail holes and glue into place.
  • Do the same for the balcony area at the side.
  • The process is exactly the same as the floorboards on the ground floor.
  • Start at the front and work backwards.
  • When gluing, clamp the very first floorboard so that it doesn't move when you start putting the remaining ones behind it.
  • Two pieces of FB407 glued nxt to each other are perfect for creating the threshold in the doorway between the two rooms.
  • Use MDF to spread the weight around and protect the floor, and use clamps where possible, weigh the floor down and leave to dry.



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Step 9

  • Using the same process as the ground floor, fix FB407 stripwood around the walls at floor and ceiling level of both rooms.
  • Fix a pice of FB 189 stripwood in the recess at the front of the cavity wall.




Step 10

  • Glue pieces of FB366 to either side of the window on the outside of the house.
  • Allow a 3mm overhang all round for a glazing recess.


  • Glue a piece to the front outside eges of the wall on both sides of the house.
  • Protrude these pieces 6mm past the end to form the recess for the access panel.
  • Use a piece of 6mm MDF to gauge the recess when clamping the piece into place.
  • Before you do this on the left hand side, you need to fix a piece of FB180 stripwood flush with the front edge of the balcony floor and against the chimney.
  • This is to provide something for the FB366 stripwood to sit on.



Step 11

  • Cut and glue all the vertical beams between the floor and ceiling beems.
  • Put beams flush to the window on the inside.
  • Now using FB407 line the door opening on each side of the cavity wall.



Step 12

  • Continue forming the window by cutting two pieces of FB189 to go from the outside edge of one vertical outside window timber to the other.
  • Carefully use the sander to round the ends of both pieces.
  • Position these centrally along the FB366 above and below so that you have a 3mm lip below the top one and above the bottom one.
  • Glue and clamp into place.




Step 13

  • Cut 2 pieces of 210mm MDF 6mm narrower than the roof it will be sitting on.
  • Using a piece of the brickwork sheet, set both pieces out from the cut out.
  • This is so that the brickwork will be flush on the inside.
  • Glue and clamp them both into place.
  • When completely dry, cut a piece of 6mm MDF the full outside width of the chimney and glue into place.



Step 14

  • Cut and glue in place the internal angled wall beams as required.





For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.


This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.

For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the marketplace section of this website.




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