Tudor Market Hall Part 9 - Continuing the Dolls House Build

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29 June 2012
imports_HAC_thecompletedtudormarke_77173.jpg The Completed Tudor Market Hall
In this part, we move on to the window frames, glazing and fireplaces of the first floor of the beautiful Tudor Market Hall. ...
Tudor Market Hall Part 9 - Continuing the Dolls House Build Images

If you have difficulty in finding any of the materials required, Kevin is happy to provide a quote for supplying everything including the MDF cut to size and the Burbidge mouldings. Also, please note that since completing the project the CD42 twisted rope moulding by Richard Burbidge is no longer available. As an alternative, we recommend that you use the FB200 instead.


The overall dimensions of the finished dolls house are approximately 110cm wide x 120cm high x 72cm deep. Please scroll to the bottom of the page for links to the previous and next parts of the project.

Skill Level

This project is suitable for the advanced miniaturist with good wood working and machinery skills. For the less experienced, we would recommend you work with someone who can help you with the more technical aspects.

Step 1 - Window Frames

  • First decide how you want to divide the individual casements on each window.
  • Try to aim for each one approximately 60mm wide.
  • Form the casements from 4 pieces of FB180 stripwood in the first window of the side of the first floor.
  • Glue 1 x piece of FB180 between the top and bottom timbers on each side of the window set in about 3mm from the edge of the vertical timbers.
  • This leaves a 3mm lip all the way round the outside of the window.
  • Measure from the centre of each piece of stripwood to determine the positions and make a small pencil mark.
  • You are looking at roughly a third from eaither side.
  • Glue two more pieces in at these points - glueing both the ends and where they connect with the 3mm lip.
  • At these points, glue pieces of FB407 above and below the window.


  • On the inside of these two pieces, glue FB407 centrally on top of them.
  • Cut 3 x pieces of FB180 to fit horizontally between the vertical posts.


Step 2

  • Using your gauges, glue the horizontal bars into place.
  • Lay pieces of FB407 across them on the inside to match the ones you have just done vertically.
  • You now have a flush recess and timbers ready for glazing.


Step 3

  • Cut 4 x pieces of FB200 Astragal moulding.
  • Glue these on top of the vertical FB180 posts on the outside of the window.
  • Take 3 x pieces with sanded, chamfered ends, cut and glue across the horizontal bar at the top of the window.


Step 4

  • The next 6 pieces should be cut but NOT glued yet.
  • Cut a piece of FB366 the width of the bottom of the window on the inside.
  • This should be from outside edge to outside edge of the vertical beams on either side.
  • Use a knife to notch out each end so that it fits into the window recess for form a window sill.
  • Do not glue.
  • Cut a piece of FB200 Astragal moulding to fit across the top of the window inside the recess.
  • Chamfer each end to 45 degrees.


  • Fit a piece of FB200 Astragal moulding to either side of the window recess.
  • Chamfer a 45 degree angle at the top so they lock into the top piece.
  • Cut 2 x pieces of FB407 to fit into the place between the window sill and the FB200 moulding at the top of the window recess.


Step 5

  • Take all 6 pieces out of the window and measure the window recess.
  • It should be approximately 95 x 180 mm.
  • Use a spare piece of MDF and draw lines on it at the size of your window recess (approx 95 x 180 mm)
  • Clamp a piece of DIY405 acetate to it and cut with a very sharp knife.
  • Offer the piece up to the window.
  • Trim to achieve a good fit.


Step 6 - Making a window glazing grid

  • Cut a piece of 12mm MDF to the size of 210 x 470 mm.
  • Use a pencil to mark out 10mm points all along both long edges.
  • Start at the first point at the top and count 10 points along from that point at the bottom.
  • Draw diagonal lines with ruler and pencil.
  • When you have finished one way, turn it over and draw the other way to create a grid of diamonds.
  • Give the grid 3 x coates of clear quick drying polyurethane varnish.
  • Use 2 pieces of FB366 stripwood 470 long and glue and pin the MDF centrally between the two.
  • The result gives a 3mm lip above and below the MDF.


Step 7

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  • Make a loop of masking tape.
  • Glue to the acetate window.
  • Secure this onto the glazing grid
  • Use a tube of Black Cerne Relief to carefully draw on the first layer of leaded light effect.


  • Wait at least 30 minutes for this to dry.
  • Turn the piece around and draw the lines in the opposite direction.
  • Leave to dry thoroughly.


Step 8

  • Remove the masking tape from the dry window.
  • Place in the window recess. Do not apply glue to the acetate, the window timbers hold it nicely in place.
    • Super glue the window sill, followed by the top FB200 moulding in place.
    • Super glue in the the upright FB200 moulding pieces to either side.
    • Glue in the two upright pieces of FB407 with a very tiny amount of glue to ends and backs.

Step 9

  • Cut pieces of FB407 to fit horizontally along the window in line with the ones outside.
  • Take care to line them up perfectly.
  • Cut 2 x pieces of FB200 Astragal moulding, chamfer the top edge so it fits nicely with the moulding at the top of the window.
  • Sand to size but don't fit them yet.
  • For the next part, the window furniture, you will need Aquaglass lead.


  • Tightly wrap the end of a lead strip around a small screwdriver.
  • Cut it off at about 12mm long.
  • Make 2 of these.
  • Use tweezers to dip each piece in super glue.
  • Glue to the two pieces of FB200 moulding you have prepared.
  • Position them about a third of the way up from the bottom edge.


  • Cut and chamfer three pieces of FB200 Astragal moulding to go across the window at the hroizontal bar level.
  • Apply a 30mm piece of Aquaglass about 30mm long, and glue to the moulding first.
  • Cut 2 more pieces of Aquaglass about 30mm long and glue to the window sills.
  • You can have as many or as few pieces of ironmongery on the windows as you like.


Step 10 - Fireplace

  • Cut pieces of previously painted brick sheeting to fit across the internal chimney back and side recesses.
  • Glue these in place.
  • Repeat the method used before to make a hearth using 6mm MDF.
  • Paint and drill it and install another extension plug.


Step 11 - Wall Lights

  • Fit wall lights in each room.
  • Fit a light hidden up the chimney.
  • Connect them in the same way as on the ground floor.
  • Once you have connected the lights on either side of the cavity wall, drill a hole through the back of the rear wall iwthin the cavity itself.
  • Run the trailling wire out ready for connecting later.
  • Use pieces of FB189 to close the cavity off and protect the wiring.
  • Always test the lights work before permanently hiding the wires.
  • Label the wires and tape them up to protect them.


Step 12

  • Use a piece of FB180 either side of the fireplace for support posts.
  • Use a pieces of FB189 across the top fo the mantel.
  • Glue CD42 (or FB200) twisted rope moulding to the front of each support post.
  • Line the exposed edge of MDF inside with FB200 Astragal moulding.


Go Back to Part 8

Go Forward to Part 10

For more information on Tudor bespoke properties go to www.kjdollshouses.co.uk, or contact Kevin Jackson at [email protected] and make sure you mention Dolls House and Miniature Scene.


This feature was originally published in Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine. If you like making miniatures, why not buy yourself a copy of the magazine. Or better still take out a subscription so you never miss an issue. For fans of Facebook and Twitter, or to email, print or comment on the feature, please use the buttons above to share with your friends.


For materials and suppliers, please take a look at the Directory section of this website.

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